1980 Honda Z50R Chrome Custom Electrical Upgrade.

Lighting on a minibike is usually pretty basic, and often absent. On the latest build, the 1980 Honda Chrome Custom, a simple battery-less pit bike design was initially used to get things going, but without a battery, things like horns and relays were not functioning well, if at all, and there was no capacity to add things like instruments and ground effects (for Parade of Lights Elvi rides.) Adding a battery was challenging because of space issues. The decision was made to change out the stator for a ground lifted, or floating stator and a full wave rectifier to change the system. Other considerations were that a key switch was now needed, and along with the handlebar buttons, used smaller gauge wire unsuitable to carry the electrical load. The relays were added to turn the lights on and switch to brights.

The original stator was wrapped with magnet wire and the output was changed to a two-wire “floating stator” type. It would have been faster changing the output of the Ricky stator to this configuration, but when experimenting with a new system, I like to leave the option to return back to original if the experiment is not successful. The 20 gauge OEM Honda key switch wires, laid next to the 18 gauge output wires of the stator are clearly smaller. The handlebar switches are rated for a headlight, but my experience with these unbranded aftermarket switches is that they produce heat, and sometimes fail because of it. With the small gauge key switch wiring and the handlebar switch issues, it was decided to use a relay system that passes current in a circuit parallel to the switched power key circuit.

One of the reasons the particular key switch was used was because it fits into the hole in the left engine mount. Although it clicks into the hole, it pops out easily, and spins freely. In past builds, I have welded a plate to the inside of the engine mount that has the right thickness and cut-outs to lock it in tight. The frame hole would then be drilled out to allow the switch to sit recessed within the hole. This pushed the switch a little further back, but was otherwise a good mod. Since the frame had already been chrome plated, welding on the bracket would present some problems. A second problem was the factory clip for the ignition pigtail, adjacent to the hole. It had been badly damaged during the plating process, and was not being used. The rusty spot in the picture is where it once was, with a couple spot welds still visible.

The ripped up bracket after removal.

The solution that solved the problems was an aluminum mounting ring. The key switch was made to fit tightly with some wedges behind the plastic prongs that hold it in place.The key switch is now firmly held, and the ugly spot is covered up.

At this point, the tray is in place, and the only remaining wiring is to hook up a full-wave rectifier. The plate made to mount the CDI box and relays conceals a horn, mounted on the backside of the plate.

The mounting screws of the battery tray were counterset to keep the already tight space big enough.

With the seat on, the battery is all but invisible. The electrical component arrangement always looks so simple when it is done, but it took a bit of time to get everything rubber mounted and arranged to fit.At this point, the relays for the lights are on the left, and the CDI box on the right. Below them, a short segment of wire is the pigtail from the stator and battery, waiting on the rectifier panel to be installed.

The mounting plate was made from .090 aluminum, and riveted onto the left number plate bracket. The part of the bracket on the right end was added to conceal the electrical parts, and keep wheel spray off them. It fit snugly to the back of the number plate.

With the plate polished, the wire harness lengthened and sheathed, the dangling rectifier is ready for mounting. The stock kick stand was not cutting it, and the chrome shop seriously altered the mounting plate, making it much thinner than original. The thinness made for a loose fit, and angling back toward the chain. The lean on the bike was also a bit much, and could use some help.

The rear view shows how the mounting bracket conceals the rectifier. A Takegawa forged aluminum kickstand was fitted to the bike. About a quarter of an inch was shaved off the bottom of the foot, to help with the lean, and a thin washer placed in the yoke to tighten up the fit.

The added electrical parts are well hidden, and the Takegawa kick stand looks much better than the original. With electrical mostly done, the next thought is exploring the possibility of a speedo and tach…

While adjusting the right number plate, the tiny spot welds on the bracket gave way. This was an aftermarket bracket I had chromed. Next time, they will get some preventative re-welding. The left number plate was chopped and re-welded to match the mounting tabs on the 1979-81 frames.

Just a small change, but the number plate fits a lot better up against the muffler.

1962 Honda CB77/CL72 Race Bike Completion.

Although not one of my builds technically, some serious time and thought went into the completion of this bike. My friend Steve Webster managed the build, getting the engine rebuilt, frame powder coated, body kit painted, wheels and tires, and other parts together before bringing it to me. The owner bought the project at auction, as a roller in need of an engine rebuild and finishing. The bike came with poorly fitted brake panels on the Suzuki wheel, so we decided to switch back to some Suzuki originals, and mill them to fit the original Honda forks.

The 1962 Honda CB77 frame and CL72 engine, mated together with the Suzuki front brake and race fairing. The fairing was loosely attached, in need of trimming, and missing a belly pan. The windshield was badly fogged, the tank and seat were just sitting on the frame unattached, the rear sets components were in need of repair and installation, and the front wheel brake panels needed to be modified to fit the forks. There were other details, large and small, like the wiring harness that was built from scratch, brake cable joints machined from stainless steel, and tiny parts that needed to be refined and re-plated.

The wiring was in place enough to establish spark, but in need of a custom harness.

A power switch was tucked up next to the battery. The remainder of the harness was covered in black sheathing, and is all but invisible in comparison to its previous state. A Honda CB360 petcock made by Keihin was rebuilt along with new hoses and clamps to plumb the carbs. Just above the petcock, Suzuki-style mounting rubber can be seen, supporting the tank. The two middle mounts can be seen on the muffler, one at the back of the footpeg, and the other at the rear of the engine case.

The rear sets were gone through, repaired, and then sent out for chrome and zinc plating, before final installation. Original style footpeg rubber was sourced from Spain.

A bracket to fit around the upper edge of the fairing was made to stabilize the fairing and allow the thin wings of the faring to be positioned in relation to the bike.

Some of the parts that came with the bike were salvageable, but it took some re-welding and machining to make them like new again.

Even though these welds look somewhat passable, grinding them out revealed porosity under this surface.

Some of the parts before polishing and prep for zinc plating. The plated parts go through a multi step process, with hot ultrasound degreasing, vapor honing, de-burring, sanding and then wire wheel burnishing before being sent off.

The Suzuki GT750 “Water Buffalo” front wheel hub with two sets of twin leading shoe brakes. They had to be machined 9/16” on each brake panel to fit the Honda forks.

Some of the small detail stuff like short seat mount bolts required attention. The foam was stripped off, and a new bracket welded up and installed.

The belly pan for the fairing was made from .060” 6061 aluminum. It was hand formed and smoothed on the English wheel, and then high polished to match the rest of the body kit. The fork opening of the fairing was in need of trimming. New chrome, black,, and clear edging was applied to all the openings and edges.

The badly fogged and scratched windshield and deteriorating rubber mounts, before repair.

Not taking any chances on scratches during the windshield install. The bottom of the windshield had to be trimmed, but it wasn’t too hard with the old windshield as a template.

The Suzuki GT750 front wheel hub all done up. After narrowing a total of 1 1/8”, and hardware re-plating, the front wheel looks pretty happy with these forks. Custom brake panel stays were built, along with stainless steel cable stays to keep the cables in place. The fork lowers were stripped, ground, and painted, then finished off with Ceriani style dust covers and clamps.

It looks fine now, but the rear brake panel came as a custom piece and was in need of some work to get it to be functional. The brake arm had to be cut and re-welded to get the geometry right, a stainless cable mounting yoke was made, and a custom set up to allow the cable end to fit in the brake panel mount. The rear brake cable is a stock NOS unit, sourced from the Netherlands. Vent holes were drilled, and the whole thing sanded and polished. The megaphone exhaust had been built without the two middle mounting brackets on each side, so those were added. The exhaust has a baked-on ceramic coating. The chrome shocks are an aftermarket set made for the Honda CB360.

An OEM left footpeg bracket was needed because of a missing muffler mounting tab, necessary because of the new middle muffler mounts.

It took some research to determine that the windshield was from a 1983-85 Suzuki GS750. Unfortunately, the only vendor that is selling an all clear version was in Poland. It took a little while to get it, but it looks excellent! All new mounting hardware and rubber was used to mount get it mounted.

The front fairing support was rubber mounted, and lowered an inch and a quarter to get the fit on everything just right. Some of the fairing support bracket and tachometer mount can be seen from this angle.

Some of the aluminum polishing pile before.After machine polishing, the parts will be given a going over by hand with some cream polish.

The unique water buffalo brake lever with two cables. The hardware on the clip-on handlebars were a mix of head sizes, so some OEM Honda hardware made for a CRF150R was substituted.The steering damper can be seen below the lever. It was painted and mounted using original hardware and rubber. Kind of cool that this was a factory part.

The Tomaselli clutch levers are so fine! A new cable bellows was found to finish it off, and the kill-switch body was high polished.

Steve had the seat cover made, and it is a beauty.

Not quite sure what it was made from, but parts of two different brake panels and a brake stay arm were put together to make the rear brake panel. After drilling venting holes, polishing, and getting the hardware plated, it looks a lot better. With the scoop facing the wrong direction to air flow, I felt the vent holes were needed to make it work.

After the tank was cushioned on the bottom, a simple loop over the rear hook secures the tank.

So glad to find the clear windshield.

One of the only pictures I got of the stainless cable stays. They keep the cables well away from the tires.

The 1980 Honda Z50R Chrome Custom completion.

The 1980 Honda Z50R Chrome Custom is off the table, and getting ready for testing. Still waiting on a switch to complete the lighting, but the engine is ready to be fired. The road here has been over the course of a few years, collecting parts and mostly watching them sit around the last few. When the build was started in earnest earlier this year, the goal was to create a Honda Z50RD tribute, with some custom parts, more power, and better suspension. Not having to paint anything is a little different. Kind of cool not having to worry about paint chips. A few electrical issues slowed down progress, namely an adapter for the CDI module that had a mis-wired plug that caused a loss of spark. Thankfully, spark is restored and firing will hopefully come soon. Enjoy the pictures.